M/FW: 'The Future' Runway
Interview with Kat Stevens
Emerging Artists Collective
Words by Mina Wakefield (she/her)
See image credits below
Emerging Artists Collective is a non-profit organisation that curates exhibitions for early-career creatives. Founded mid-COVID the collective has since produced a series of fine art exhibitions, photography paste-ups, and fashion runways. This year marks its biggest show yet: The Future Runway, a collaboration with Melbourne Fashion Week that spotlighted more than 100 up-and-coming fashion and jewellery designers, models, and make-up artists.
It’s the day after The Future runway, and I sit down with Kat Stevens, Director of Emerging Artists Collective. She’s sat comfortably at home on the couch, and tomorrow she heads off to the Philippines for six weeks.
“How do you feel now that it’s all done?” I ask.
Kat smiles. “It feels strange. I came home and thought, ‘Well, there's nothing to do – there are no boxes in my house anymore’...My house feels really empty, but it feels good. I feel accomplished”.
For weeks, her home was filled with sponsored items: stacks of Fashion Journal magazines and other gift bag goodies piled up on her living room floor.
During the Pandemic, Kat and her classmates were unable to hold a traditional graduate show. Eager to display their work, they took it upon themselves and created a paste-up in North Melbourne with 32 artists. A few months later, they put on a gallery show, and as the collective evolved, Kat began experimenting with fashion runways as well.
As a creative myself, it seems increasingly difficult to get your name out there, which is why Emerging Artists Collective’s ethos really resonates with me. It stems from Kat’s own struggles with the creative industry:
“When I finished uni, I felt like there was nowhere to go. You either had to be an established artist or have a lot of money to do a gallery show. There wasn’t much space for those just starting. My goal was to provide a platform for artists who might not otherwise have one. For designers, unless you’re in the student runway for Melbourne Fashion Week, it’s tough to get a foot in the door. EAC gives them a chance, and it looks great on their résumé, too.”
This year’s runway’s name, The Future, came from that very idea — looking ahead. Noticing that Fashion Journal had been spotlighting emerging designers all year, Kat was reminded that “these young creatives are the future”.
She highlights that it’s often the emerging designers who feel the least inhibited with their creative style, a quality she believes deserves as much visibility as established names.
“They’ll go on to do the big runways and become the next generation of designers. It’s important to showcase them early and to show that the future of fashion doesn’t have to be conservative. Emerging designers are experimenting, breaking boundaries, and creating things that feel truly fresh. That’s what I love about it.”
That’s exactly how The Future runway felt: spirited, exciting, and distinctive.
Held at Kensington Town Hall, the show unfolded with precision; Models emerged on stage stepping out from a red velvet curtain, into the spotlight and wove their way gracefully through the audience.
The variety of artistic visions on display was striking. Designs ranged from sculptural pieces and layered, utility-inspired looks to dreamy, flowing silk garments, ornament-adorned fur jackets, collaged lace gowns, and boat-shaped hats crafted from hair. Each piece was truly one-of-a-kind, showcasing the sheer talent flourishing within Melbourne’s emerging fashion community.
Kat shares that during the application process, she was met with an abundance of talent, making it hard to narrow down her shortlist.
“It was really difficult! Even some designers who’ve shown with me before didn’t make it in this time, which was tough. I try to be honest and constructive. Sometimes the work just isn’t quite runway-ready yet.”
She also considers inclusivity with sizing.
“I want to see a range of body types represented. It’s something we’re working on improving each year.”
Pairing a model to a garment is a thoughtful and intentional process for Kat, who chooses the models herself rather than leaving it to the designers.
“It keeps things interesting and often results in combinations they wouldn’t have imagined.”
Reflecting on Emerging Artists Collective’s broader intention, I ask Kat what she hopes the audience took away from The Future runway.
“I hope they continue supporting emerging artists in every field, not just fashion. Art is everywhere: in music, design, marketing, everything. With the cost-of-living crisis, it’s harder than ever for creatives to survive. Platforms like EAC give them exposure, experience, and hopefully opportunities that lead to paid work. That’s what matters most to me.”
More than anything, Emerging Artists Collective is a community for creatives in an industry that can often feel very exclusive or insular.
“I see the messages in the group chats after each show, where designers and models who only met a week ago are already planning to collaborate again,” Kat explains.
“People make real friendships through EAC. They come back as models, stylists, and photographers. It’s a whole creative network that keeps growing. For example, one designer, Chelsea Farquhar, only started making clothes about 18 months ago. Since being on our runway, she’s been featured in magazines and has made clothes for singers. Seeing things like that happen makes it all worth it.”
As our conversation wraps up, I ask Kat what she’s most excited about for the future of Emerging Artists Collective. She smiles, thoughtful.
“Honestly, I’m excited about not knowing exactly what’s next. I have so many possibilities ahead, and I feel like I have such a supportive community behind me. No matter what I do, people show up, and that’s such a special feeling.”
The Future runway stands as proof of the extraordinary creative talent thriving among Melbourne’s emerging fashion designers, and a reminder of how important it is to have spaces that uplift those who might not otherwise have the chance to be seen.
Photos by Karen Song @karensong__ and Sylvie Martin @sylwiemartin
Designers and models: Designer: Planet X @itsplanet_x
Models: Martha Gatwech @itssmarthag and Miloyo Moller @miloyo.mchawi
Designer: Pkopz @pkopz.au
Model: Juan Formentera @1_juandred
Designer: Phillipa Signorelli @phillipasignorelli.design
Model: Charlotte Chiodo @charelottemarichiodo
Designer: Valentina Barrios @val_barrrios
Model: Samara Younger @samara.yon
Designer: Ursula and 404 @ursula__xo and @404pieces
Model: Sapphira Rolfe @sapphira.maisy