The term ‘versatile’ straddles the relationship between inconsistency and adaptation, bridging a gap between the unexpected nature of everyday life, and the resilience that precedes shortly after. Sartorially, a garment’s versatility can be defined by its ability to adapt to various functions, activities and ways of wearing - providing transeasonal yet functional use to its wearer.
But how exactly can you measure a garment’s level of versatility? An ability to suit all occasions, remain inclusive and practical, yet understanding of the value in quality craftsmanship and innovation?
By successfully hosting a runway show on top of a city rooftop bar, amidst an unruly spring storm - an ode to versatile dressing, when the weather proves clothing should be designed to suit all occasions.
As a part of this year’s Melbourne Fashion Week iteration, Naarm based independent label KAHE presented their show ‘WALK’: “a reflection on cultural independence, working-class resilience, and the quiet strength of utility”.
Tucked away amidst an assortment of bustling takeaway shopfronts in the city centre of Naarm, Melbourne, the illustrious ‘Curtin House’ - usually home to a handful of local bars, restaurants and curated clothing stores, including KAHE’s flagship store - housed the brand’s show WALK last month, as a part of this year’s Melbourne Fashion Week showcase. The collection of ready-to-wear looks were curated for “anyone who values honesty in construction and clarity in design” deliberately “made for living, shaped by labour, intimacy and the realities of everyday life”.
Scaling six levels of narrow stairs, the show was situated on the furthest level of the venue - usually home to Curtin House’s buzzing ‘Rooftop Bar’. Set against the backdrop of a greying city skyline, the venue sat illuminated by neighbouring office spaces amidst a flurry of ominous clouds taunting overhead. As attendees slowly filtered up the winding stairs and onto the rooftop, most remained unperturbed by the weary weather. Umbrellas gradually emerged throughout the crowd, whilst others braved the grim drizzle. But just before the show commenced, Melbourne did what it does best: unleash its infamous weather patterns on the city below. As the rain broke through the overhead clouds, more umbrellas began to surface throughout the crowd, whilst others flocked for cover at the end of the runway. But, despite the weather’s sudden determination to hijack the evening, the beckoning soundtrack to KAHE’s show WALK began to weave its way around the rooftop, cutting through the side lashings of rain and otherworldly wind.
The first wave of garments to hit the runway featured upcycled checkered shirting and relaxed tailored bottoms, utilising panelling and contrasting patterns - a nod towards functional every-day wear, elevated by pattern and thoughtful construction. Paired with double waistband bottoms and checkered detachable pants, the brand’s dedication to versatile dressing was made clear from their very first looks, offering re-imagined takes on traditional silhouettes. Further new-collection items like innovative tie-up capri tights and bikini bottoms and bralettes also made their runway debut, offered in striped patterns and muted colourways, drawing attention to cut, construction and versatility.
Pieces from past collections “In Two Minds,” and “You Are My Slow Burn” also featured throughout, which saw slinky boat-neck long sleeves paired with the brand’s iconic buckle-detailed jeans, semi-sheer decaying dresses and draping shorts. The breadth of styling across each look offered an androgynous feel to the pieces featured, whilst highlighting the versatility and transeasonal use of each garment.
A distinct pillar of KAHE’s foundation, quality construction and purposeful design took centre stage as deconstructed military-style jackets and tailored bottoms also emerged on the runway, bleeding a sense of functionality, whilst remaining tailored to the individual wearer. Intended for “anyone who values honesty in construction and clarity in design,” each garment’s unparalleled attention to detail was made obvious, despite the flinching rain that blurred the runway. Shades of black, brown and navy also dominated the show, drawing attention to silhouette and structure, enforced by thoughtful craftsmanship and tailoring. Longline silhouettes were also a common theme throughout, providing figure-hugging garments designed to move with the wearer.
Arguably, the pinnacle of the show was KAHE’s featured leather accessories, from utility shoulder bags to bold convertible boots styled with many of the looks. Monochromatic pairings were seen with textured brown boots and gold-embellished shoulder bags, drawing further attention to design and structure, highlighting the bespoke nature of each piece designed to age with the wearer.
Speaking to those in attendance after the show, it was clear the weather’s overbearing presence proved to be the cherry on top of an exquisite evening, with one attendee Matthew Bull putting the crowd’s energy down to the unruly storm; “I think the rain actually made the atmosphere”. Describing the show as “very Melbourne,” fellow attendee Tom Merrylees agreed that “the rain really topped it off,” despite initial unease. Sophie McDarra also voiced her initial doubts after the rain set in, however this was quickly distinguished after the first looks hit the runway; “I wasn't sure when it first started… but oh, my God, that bitch turned out”.
Of the looks, Bull also admired the leather accessories, who pointed out “I actually think that carried it… I loved the brown boots, brown bag look, and the boots with the ballooney pants that looked like they were tucked in… I think those two looks were great”. Similarly, Merrylees appreciated the monochromatic pairings on the runway, a highlight being “the double black look with the brown boots, that would have been my favourite look of the night”.
Despite the vision-obscuring rain and dizzying wind, it was clear as day the label’s dedication to quality craftsmanship, versatile dressing, and functional design.
KAHE Presents: WALK proved to be a celebration of the unbridled talent Melbourne’s independent designers have to offer, in a show that was equally surprising as it was comforting.