Hi Anna! Could you tell me a bit about yourself?
Hi! I’m a designer / maker of clothing and swimwear under the brand ‘Anna Jean Kos’, which takes a slow fashion approach to creating pieces that are made ethically and have a low environmental impact, while also being cool, beautiful and comfy. ‘Anna Jean Kos’ combines my first name with ‘Jean’ from my dad’s side of the family and ‘Kos’ from my mum’s side.
Both my grandmother’s were creative and incredible seamstresses, so it felt important to include both sides of the family in my name in some way. These days, I usually refer to myself and my brand as AJK, it resonates with me just as strongly as my actual given name.
How would you describe your own personal style, and what demographic / type of individual are you creating for in particular?
My own style is very casual. Anything easy and comfy to wear (jeans and a tee, or bikinis and comfy shorts). I don’t think many people would feel fashionably-inspired if they saw me walking down the street, I’d rather inspire with the looks I create for others. Honestly, I have a whole imaginary wardrobe of AJK pieces in my head but I feel like I’m always making things for others and never have time to make things for myself. The jeans and tees will do for now.
I create for individuals who care about what they wear, how it looks, how it feels and how it was made. I believe that people should be intentional with what they purchase and that what we buy should align with our values. Most pieces are made to order and since the beginning of AJK, I’ve offered custom sizing for those who would like it, for no extra charge, so that you end up with something you love. The silhouettes I’ve designed in both clothing and swim looking incredible on so many different bodies. It’s something I’m really proud of and want to continue growing for my brand.
What does it take to create truly slow fashion?
Time, perseverance and passion. Slow fashion is the opposite of fast fashion. There’s a focus on buying less but buying better quality pieces that you’re going to wear for years to come, instead of pushing over-consumption. I want people to put thought into what they’re buying. Once they’ve ordered, I want them be absolutely obsessed with what they own and be able to wear it over and over again.To create slow fashion, you’ve got to set your guidelines early and stick with them. The guidelines I set out for AJK as a ‘slow fashion’ brand included the following:
- Advocate for buying good quality pieces you’ll continue to wear for a long time
- Treat and pay people fairly, have them feel their persons and their work are appreciated and important
- Reduce waste by not over-producing or encouraging over-consumption
- Prioritise materials that are sourced ethically, are as natural as possible and have a low impact on the environment
- Offer custom sizing and adjustments to be more inclusive, accessible and comfortable to all people
Many ‘slow fashion’ brands will have guidelines that are slightly different. Some might prioritise being zero-waste where others put their resources to size inclusivity. I think there’s a lot of pressure on smaller brands to be perfect and I know from experience that we’re all doing our best with what we have at hand. That’s why I love the slow fashion community as a whole, because it seems to naturally align ethical, eco-conscious fashion and people doing their best to build something that makes a positive impact overall.
How did AJK come to be?
Sewing and making things is something I’ve always done for fun since I was a child. In 2019, I was living on Oahu, Hawai’i and began experimenting with cotton and linen, making basic halters and loungewear sets for myself and friends. I was acid-washing fabrics and experimenting with different patterns, styles and techniques. It was the first time I’d ever sewn for other people and AJK was created as a way to share these designs and connect with others.
A year later, while in a managed isolation hotel in Aotearoa, New Zealand, I designed my first bikini. I knew the exact cut and style I wanted to wear that summer, and I knew I wouldn’t find it in New Zealand. It was a high cut, cheeky bottom, not too skimpy at the front with a simple triangle halter top). I grew up with the ocean and beach as my backyard, so it seemed natural to create a swimwear collection for the brand. AJK silhouettes are designed to be simple, clean and flattering. I choose styles that I feel good in and that I know others will feel good wearing over and over again.
What have you learnt about the fashion industry?
I hate this question, because I've learnt so many shady, negative things that go on in the fashion industry and I don’t even know where to start without ruining everyone’s day.
If we’re able to look past the environmental degradation, greenwashing, human rights issues, inequalities and performative faux activism brands are seen undertaking, then maybe I could say that there are also communities within the fashion industry that are so incredibly determined to make a positive impact. I am constantly in awe and inspired by them to do the same.
I didn’t go to fashion school, I came into this industry purely because I started sewing things, got obsessed and let it take over my whole life. I found others in the industry who’s values aligned with mine and felt they were really welcoming and ready to help educate me on how I could feasibly create a successful, ethical and eco-conscious fashion brand.
I’ve learnt about innovations and movements that exist within the fashion industry that could make a real difference, and it gives me a lot of hope.
Lastly, what advice would you give to other young designers wanting to start their own brand?
Keep creating, share your work, collaborate, and stick to your guidelines. If you’re starting out, focus on designing things that you enjoy as well as those that challenge you. Whenever I’m struggling to make a decision, I always ask myself whether it aligns or goes against the values I set out for AJK, and if it’s something I’m going to enjoy doing in the long-run.
We’re living in a very fast-paced world and often expect things to come to us instantaneously. I’d advise a young designer to focus on the long-run wins instead of short-term bursts of validation.
