MFW ‘24 Student Runway
Demure writers Edie Hopgood (she/her) and Ella Bryson-Sabec (she/her) cover the night that was the 2024 MFW Student Runway - speaking to designer Frank Taplin (he/him) who helped bring the night together.
Images by Liana Hardy, Monica Dragut and Kayla MPK
It’s no secret that Melbourne Fashion Week is one of Naarm’s most anticipated events. Falling at the centrefold of the Australian fashion scene, passion oozes from every single corner of this event - from the volunteers and employees, to the attendees, to the media to, of course, the fashion designers. A hub for creativity, expression and storytelling - the week consecutively boasts an impressive line up of both established and emerging talents, intersecting the lines of art and fashion.
Each year I’ve partaken in Melbourne Fashion Week, be it watching in awe from behind or in front of the runway, it always remains an event that is eagerly marked in my calendar. You can imagine my glee when offered a chance to cover the runways this year. I jumped on the opportunity as fast as humanly possible.
Much like this is an exciting time for myself and other attendees, many aspiring fashion designers had the incomparable chance to present their collections (otherwise known as their blood, sweat and tears in fabric form) at this year's Melbourne Fashion Week Student Runway, held at the Lume.
On first impressions, I was blown away by the space alone - floor to ceiling graphics projected onto any flat surface available, intently placed seating carving out the night's runway, and last but not least, flurrying guests and media, patiently awaiting the program to begin. Once it did, the models emerged, seemingly from out of nowhere, and descended the path, telling the entrusted stories of each design that adorned their bodies - their struts, expressions, and mannerisms, all representing a piece of the designer's puzzle, bringing the clothes to life through intricate and thoughtful dramaturgy.
Featuring works from institutes such as Box Hill Institute, Holmesglen Institute, LCI Melbourne, RMIT School of Fashion and Textiles and Whitehouse Institute of Design Australia - the designers showcased at the Student Runway were, without a doubt, the next generation of budding fashion visionaries. The night consisted of movement, flamboyance, structural, experimental silhouettes and tailoring to the nines - the list goes on.
A marvel of works were showcased on this fine night. I am always truly blown away at the talent, skill and craftsmanship on display from all of the students involved and felt so incredibly lucky to have had the chance to witness the fruits of their labour and dedication walking the runway in real- time. It’s hard to imagine how many hours and emotions were spilled into these pieces, but their dedication well and truly shone through.
In support of the glowing recount of the evening, fellow Demure writer Ella, took to interview participating student, Frank Taplin - discussing his debut collection ‘A Perfectly Fitting Suit?.’ Frank transforms the classic suit we all know and love, and reimagines the silhouette, by draping and carving out new contours to construct a completely new garment, whilst still upholding core elements of a traditional suit.
“My collection ‘A Perfectly Fitting Suit?’ Is primarily looking into the relationship found in classic tailoring between the cloth, which tends to be very “soft” and fluid, and the rigid structural elements of suiting… [exploring] how I could use this interaction to create something that still has those archetypes of tailoring present, but simultaneously pushes things into different directions.”
All design processes look different and Frank takes the time to talk us through his, explaining that before he begins to search for inspiration he sketches out rough ideas that complement his personal style and preferred techniques, which are based on his past works. From there, Frank draws inspiration from various art mediums - with sculpture being one that has played an intimate role in creating ‘A Perfectly Fitting Suit?’
“I’ve found that I’m drawn to sculpture the most recently, more specifically sculptors who work with fabrics or other textiles. There’s something about trying to translate the same states of the fabrics found in these sculptures into a wearable, functional garment that really intrigues me.”
Frank emphasises his love for garment construction in an industry that is moving further and further away from handmade garments and more closely into automated systems of production. Frank hopes that through his collection, people can see the importance of the meticulous work that goes into high-quality garment construction.
“What really interests me about fashion now is the perseverance of handmade and artisanally made clothing. Something about the clothes made by these artisanal designers feels a lot more real, all the handworked details give everything a quality that extends beyond just the construction itself.”
Frank talks about the piece he is most excited to showcase in his collection, which is the coat featured in the first look. This coat encapsulates the concept of ‘A Perfectly Fitting Suit?’ in and of itself. The boundaries of a traditional suit are bent to create an incredibly unique garment that is both structural yet, somehow, simultaneously fluid. Allowing what was once a familiar garment to be completely reconstructed and reevaluated.
“To me [the coat from the first look] feels like the most concise way I’ve expressed the ideas I’m exploring in this work. It still feels very recognisable as a tailored jacket, but it’s pushed far enough away from traditional silhouettes and construction that I feel like I've been able to see it as a jacket without all of the context or expectations you would traditionally view a suit in.”
