Closing Runway
A review by Edie Hopgood
Melbourne Fashion Week
This year’s Melbourne Fashion Week programme drew to a close with presentations from some of the country's best independent designers. Such a skilled lineup could only suggest one thing: that the looks to grace the runway would be a display of unparalleled ingenuity and craftsmanship.
This year's lineup featured new and returning names, including; Amy Cottrell, BAAQIY, Brotherhood of St. Laurence x Hunter Gatherer, Bruce Store, Cakey Sportsman by Matea Gluscevic, Corcorancorin, Erik Yvon, Gotham, Jarrod Reid, Karlaidlaw, Lucinda Babi, Niamh Galea (formerly Ramp Tramp Tramp Stamp), Salon Archive and S!X.
Set to the backdrop of the 101 Collins Street foyer and complemented by an immersive performance from singer Odette, backed by string octet ensemble Vivid Strings, the evening felt less like the your average showcase, and more of an artistic performance.
My interest was immediately piqued when archival and rare designer pieces, curated by Salon Archive, began to take the runway. Renowned iconography from some of the most influential names in fashion, such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and John Galliano, were unmissable and equally as captivating. Aside from their undeniable beauty, this rare insight into the pinnacle of fashion design history framed the night perfectly; showing casing where fashion has been, before meeting it where it is at present.
Niamh Galea’s debut collection under its new namesake title was an impressive sequel of looks. After its long and renowned operation under Ramp Tramp Tramp Stamp, these fresh pieces remained true to Galea’s core design characteristics–pops of colour, feminine silhouettes, and cutesy patterns–but there was a clear edge, an intentional shift toward its new era. As a long time admirer of the brand, these pieces prompted a welcome return to the runway and a renewed excitement for what's to come.
Bruce’s curated display highlighted all the reasons why they are one of the most reliable destinations for second hand, designer goods. The elegant selection of pieces featured sheer detailing, timelessly simple accessorising, and neutral staples, and felt like they had been whisked straight from the 90s runways on everyone's Pinterest boards.
A stark, yet welcomed contrast was to follow in the form of the eccentric designs of Cakey Sportsman by Matea Gluscevic. Having debuted their fashion alias at last year's programme, it felt fitting to see them gracing yet another MFW runway. Being a long time fan of their intricately detailed shoewear (as seen on no other than Julia Fox), also making an appearance on the runway, the innovation and craftsmanship of the sister label came as no surprise
Stepping onto the runway in all its glory were a series of looks from CorcoranCorin. With impeccable artistry and an impressive array of natural and upcycled materials on display, the collection felt as cohesive as it did impactful. The rich textures and intricate techniques present in each look stood out amongst its companions.
This wouldn’t be a MFW review without confessing my undying love for local label Karlaidlaw. Allowing the accessibility of highly fashionable pieces that can slot into your everyday wardrobe isn’t an easy task, but is one that designer Karla has consistently nailed over the years. This showcase presented an array of stunning couture designs that we have grown to expect from the labels fashion week presentations, alongside a focus on the world of accessories. Their introduction to artisanal footwear marks a new milestone for the label, only adding to an already impressive repertoire.
I was equally as blown away by the handiwork of designer Jarrod Reid whose sculptural designs consisted of astronomical attention to detail—from boisterous plaid frocks to stark-white, elegantly frilled gowns that shapeshifted with each step. There was an undeniable presence of vulnerability, as Reid’s heart and soul were very clearly laid plain in these designs, having taken what one can only assume to be an insurmountable time to piece together.
Overall, this event cements the undeniable talent of our local community. This, paired with the festival's enduring commitment to inclusivity, fosters a culture of deep respect and representation that sectors, such as the arts, crave. An endearing display to witness, especially seeing so many young and budding creatives in attendance, serving as a reminder to never stop shopping, supporting and showing up for local stars.
Images by Long Story Short.
