Celebrating Diversity and Redefining Fashion

Melbourne Fashion Week 2023

Demure had the amazing opportunity on being invited to this years Melbourne Fashion Week. MFW 2023 was a vibrant celebration of creativity and culture, featuring an array of designers who left an indelible mark on the runway. From the dynamic First Nation creators at the Ganbu Marra showcase to the Y2K-inspired Underground Runway, and the transformative MFW closing event challenging corporate wear norms, the event was a testament to the ever-evolving world of fashion. This year's runway saw a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, with each designer's vision brought to life by an ensemble cast of models representing a spectrum of sizes and abilities. The event left a powerful impression: with a strong focus on diversity and sustainability, It paves the way for a thriving future in the Australian fashion landscape.

The Lume, the host of the Ganbu Marra runway, showcased a diverse array of both emerging and established First Nation designers. Among them were ADJADURA ART, BAYIKINA AWAKEN, Clair Helen, Elverina Johnson in collaboration with Taking Shape, Ginny’s Girl Gang, Ihraa Swim, Ikuntji Artists, Kamara Australia, Kaninda, Lazy Girl Lingerie, MumRed, Nungala Creative, Ticia Designs, wa-ring, Wuurn of Kanak, and Yarrenyty Arltere Artists.

Ganbu Marra Runway

Diversity flourished in silhouettes and styles, with each brand unveiling its distinctive identity. Flowing, contemporary designs took centre stage, adorned with intricate patterns inspired by indigenous art, forming a vibrant tapestry of colours and shapes. Fabrics and materials were expertly chosen, emphasizing the harmonious blend of tradition and modernity in every garment. Indigenous art-inspired patterns and a lively colour palette not only adorned the designs but also graced the surrounding walls. Playful Motifs are also featured on garments adding to the vibrant theme across the board.

The Ganbu Marra runway last night was nothing short of electrifying, captivating everyone in attendance. The evening commenced with a Welcome to Country led by the esteemed Senior Wurundjeri elder, Aunty Joy. This was followed by a special appearance by fashion icon Elaine George along with a mesmerizing performance by local artist kee’ahn. This celebration of First Nations fashion, art, and creativity brought us together to witness a breathtaking display of designs from First Nations creators across Australia. In light of the disappointing outcome of the Referendum, the Ganbu Marra provided a much-needed celebration of First Nations People.

THE LUME Melbourne delivered a spectacular demonstration of artistry, captivating the audience with its cutting-edge projector presentation. This sprawling four-story venue, covering an expansive 3,000 square meters, stands as a groundbreaking achievement, being the Southern Hemisphere's first permanent space of its kind. The immersive show seamlessly transported viewers into a dynamic, multi-sensory environment-talk about, allowing them to effortlessly transition between the unique aesthetics of each featured brand, while also narrating the story of Australia's rich and dynamic cultural history.

This runway exalted diversity in its entirety, showcasing a cast of models, each embodying the designer's vision with grace and flair. The casting of the show powerfully underscores the often unspoken yet essential truth: diversity promotes diversity. This ripple effect was vividly demonstrated by the array of models, celebrated for their various sizes and abilities.

BAYIKINA AWAKEN
Yarrenyty Arltere Artists
Lazy Girl Lingerie
Ginny’s Girl Gang
Kamara Australia

Underground Runway

The Underground Runway presenting an unapologetic celebration of Y2K dressing and underground culture, spotlighting a cast of independent designers:

Briar Will
Clothing the Gaps
Erik Yvon
Reborn by HoMie
L–H-M x Future From Waste Lab
House of Darwin
Jam the Label
KAHE
Karlaidlaw
Maroske Peech
Sabatucci
Toile Studios

The venue, an old BMW showroom, was pumped with techno and trance. The thudding beats and high BPM had the audience captivated from design to design. Most garments featured bright, bold fluros, leaning into the whole maximalism look. The Y2K runway meant silhouettes remained a pretty constant look across the board, with smaller outerwear while the bottoms remained loose and baggy - a silhouette which is still remaining the top trend for garment and outfit construction. Distinct patterns included Erik Yvons' Pink Digital Camo Denim Jacket, Briar Will's Star Pattern Track Pants, and House of Darwin's Multi-colored Zip Up Face Net Jacket. While most of the graphics seen on tees include hand-drawn doodle graphics and airbrush designs, they evoke a rebellious spirit and DIY attitude, appealing to Gen-Z's desire for individualized aesthetics. A highlight of footwear was the Mizuno Morelia Indoor shoes, which may be the next alternative to the extremely popular Adidas Samba. Bleached hats also made an appearance, perhaps indicating that the customized maximalist grunge hats may not have finished their run just yet.

You might be tired of hearing about #Y2K or #UndergroundRave, but the truth is, the trend is far from dead. Melbourne Fashion Week (MFW) showed us that this trend may be here to stay. The rave renaissance, with its collective effervescence, has become a safe space for darker themes with moody aesthetics. This is highlighted by oversized baggy silhouettes, counterbalanced with subversive and sexy pieces. The global youth is flocking to this style, allowing brands to capture it and give us their own twist.

The Underground Runway kicked off in a rave-inspired style. Across two floors, the first floor allowed guests to sit and grab a drink while some designs were showcased throughout the level. The second floor of Melbourne Fashion Week did what most raves do, converting an abandoned facility into one that can be appreciated by untied art lovers. The Y2K zeitgeist permeates every stitch, promising a trend that refuses to fade into obscurity. As the crowd pulsated with energy, the designers' creations soared, affirming the Underground Runway as a beacon of avant-garde expression.

Toile Studios
Toile Studios
KAHE
Maroske Peech
FUTURE FROM WASTE

Highrise Runway

The MFW closing runway on the 64th floor of 120 Collins Street presented a refreshing take on corporate wear, challenging conventional notions of office attire. Gen Z, at the forefront of this movement, embraces a fusion of personal style and professional identity, ushering in an era of accessible, understated luxury.

Notably, the designs emphasized the gender-inclusive appeal of accessories like blazers, signalling a departure from conventional norms and inviting the corporate world to embrace a more expressive approach to office attire.The blurring of boundaries between formal and casual attire has led these designers to explore surrealistic aesthetics driven by AI-powered creativity, aligning with the forecast of Expanded Imagination. Illusional fades and smudged prints took centre stage, offering a trans-seasonal appeal that resonates with the modern professional.

Within the abandoned office space, an atmosphere of exaggerated corporate culture unfolded. Models moved with robotic precision, embodying themes of modern-day dystopia and the increasing influence of AI. Scenes of repetitive tasks, discussions, and sudden dance breaks highlighted the monotony and desire for liberation experienced by many in the corporate world. Dimly lit Flat Panel LED Light Fixtures and the backdrop of the cityscape further captivated the audience, enhancing the impact of each design.

The design direction drew inspiration from the bold tailoring of the 1980s, incorporating extended shoulder pads and elements reminiscent of 90s and early 2000s officewear. Denim, a versatile fabric, played a central role in crafting smart, timeless silhouettes that seamlessly transitioned from work to social settings. The standout pieces, such as Reworked OXBD (Oxford Collar Button Down), encapsulated this sartorial shift. Matching sets and hi-lo styling added a dynamic edge, enhancing the adaptability of this style.

The Flowy Red Ghostly Illusion Dress by Injurys exemplified this trend, showcasing dark distorted florals and a unique perspective. The adoption of digital printing techniques not only achieved these photographic distortions but also aligned with sustainability goals, reducing dye and chemical waste.

In conclusion, the MFW closing runway marked a significant shift in corporate wear, epitomizing Gen Z's playful approach to redefining work attire. This event showcased a harmonious blend of personal style and professional identity, setting the stage for a new era of accessible luxury and identity in the workplace.